Hanbok (한복) is the primary form of traditional dress in Korea. In the modern day, the Korean hanbok is only worn on special occasions such as for weddings and traditional holidays. However, in the past the Korean hanbok was worn as daily dress. The Joeseon period hanbok (when it reached it's final form), such as the one pictured below in Figure 1 for a woman, consists of two main components, the jeogri (저고리) and chima (치마). Hanbok for men also includes baji (바지).
Figure 1: Hanbok (한복) |
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The jeogri can be described as a short jacket with long sleeves that is tied together in the front. Its sleeves are wide, long, and rectangular which allows layers to be added in the winter when temperatures in Korea can average anywhere from thirteen to twenty-six degrees.
Sleeve shapes were varied but they are generally rectangular. They extend out to a portion of the jeogri referred to as the kkeutdong (끝동) or cuffs. These cuffs can be different colors from the primary portion of the garment and have beautiful embroidery as can be seen below in Figure 3. They measure approximately 2 inches in length and 5 inches wide.
The center part of the jeogri holds a finished strip of cloth called the seop (섶) which can be the same color as the central portion of the garment or a contrasting one. Some seops contain every color of the rainbow adding even more appeal to the jeogri. Some seops feature every color of the rainbow adding even more appeal to the jeogri.
The jeogri has a prominent collar that, as in figure 2, can be stiff to the touch and decorated with delicate and colorful embroidery. As shown in figure 2, the seop is traditionally located on the right side of the garment. In order to close the garment, the Korean Hanbok uses georeum (고름). Georeum are two ribbons attached on the left side of the jeogri opposite the seop. The bow length on the right side measured approximately 40 inches and was 2 inches wide. The left side georeum was 35 inches in length. In order to fasten the hanbok together the georeum must be fastened in a half bow and the ends must be even as in as in figure 1.
Figure 2: Jeorgi (저고리) |
Figure 3: Kkeutdong (끝동) |
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Collars can have different shapes and therefore different names. The one on this garment has a dangogit collar which has been especially popular during the Joseon Dynasty. The collar has two layers, one of which is made from similar fabric to the rest of the jeogri and is embroidered. The other, made from stiffer material, is placed around the neckline, over the top, creating a barrier between the delicate fabric of the jeogori and the wearer's neck.
The chima is the skirt portion of the hanbok. It has three main parts, the heori (허리), kkeun (끈), and the jureum (주름). The jureum is the actual skirt portion of the chima. As in seen in Figures 4 and 6 the jureum consists of a series of panels that are sewn together in sections in order to create the full skirt. The middle panel, seen in Figure 5, is approximately 42 inches from the heori to hem and 17 inches wide across the front. The jureum is pleated together at the top where it connects to the heori as in figure 5. There is approximately 4 inches pleating in length. The heori is the section across the top on the chima to which the skirt portion is attached. In figure 5 a belt loop can be seen on the front onto the heori. This was not a feature traditionally on chima, but a form developed over time for wearing ease.
Figure 4: Jureum |
Figure 5: Heori |
Figure 6: Lining |
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The final section of the chima is called the kkeun. When the chima is off the wearer, it does not create a full, closed circle as in figure 5. In fact, when it lays flat it resembles an apron shape (See Figure 4). The kkeun is the belt that closes the chima in the same way the the georeum does for the jeogri. The kkeun is long enough to cross in the front and wrap around the back are return to the front where it is tied in a bow. The chima in figure 5 features an attachment that is not typical of a traditional chima. There are two thin straps made out of sheer material used to help the user keep the chima in place over one’s shoulders. These straps were sewn into the top of the heori. This is another example of how the hanbok has been modernized for current wear. It is worn over a petticoat what further obscures the body below.
Figure 7: Petticoat |
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The hanbok in made from organza, a light stiff silk; it is decorated with machine embroidery of with silk floss. It has a soft orange / peach jegori that features white kkeutdong and pastel floral embroidery. In Figure 3, several different flowers can be seen including pink lotuses and pink peonies. The chima is a rich green color and the pastel floral embroidery is done on a white ground. The top of the chima is white cotton as is the petticoat.
© Meredith Edmonds, 2017