I draped the reproduction pattern on a size 10 form.  The bodice is a plaid silk taffeta flatlined with cotton satin, while the sleeves are flatlined with Tremode.  The side back seams are trimmed and serged rather than topstitched like the original garment.  The side seams and shoulders are also serged.  Center front is self-faced, but the silk is turned back and slip stitched instead of using the selvedge.  I stitched eggs made of batting and cotton satin at the front muscle points to help fill the natural hollow between the bust and arm.  The keyhole buttonholes are done by machine, and the buttons are covered with the same silk as the trim.  The sleeves are one piece and edged with knife pleated trim.

Figure 1: Reproduction Front	Figure 2: Reproduction Back

Figure 3: Detail of Side Back	Figure 4: Detail of Trim

© Leah Pelz, 2014