Black Silk Faille Bodice

Overview: The black silk faille bodice, c. 1885, is trimmed with pleated black silk jacquard. It opens in the front and has a peplum that flares over the skirt and bustle.

Supplemental Pages: Full Description, Bibliography, Reproduction, Pattern

Construction: The bodice opens at center front with 17 buttons. The front piece is shaped to accommodate the silhouette achieved by the corset. Two vertical darts start below the waist near center front and another horizontal dart marks the waistline. The shoulder seam is pushed towards the back. The front piece extends past the side seam and curves towards the back. Side back pieces curve into the back. There is a seam at center back, and the two pieces create a V shape, narrowing to center back at the waist and the flaring out again. An attached piece on the interior creates a pleated peplum which would flare out over the bustle. The sleeves are two-piece and fitted. They have a 2 3/8" cuff made from jacquard that is patterned with polka dots which is slit at the back seam. The bodice has a 1" standing collar. All seams are finished with hand overcast. There is a waist support that has five hooks and eyes. Each dart has an applied bone casing. The side back seam has applied casings, but the bones are missing.

Trim: Center front is trimmed with black silk jacquard which has been made into four vertical pleats; the cuffs are made from this same jacquard. These pleats are narrower at the bottom and wider towards the neck. The buttons are passamenterie balls.

Damage: There are a few bones missing and others have ripped through the casings. There is wear on the front darts from the tension created by wear. The right side back seam has pulled out, leaving only the flat lining. The left armhole at back has also pulled out.

Tags: Has been studied and reproduced by MFA candidate