[Cotton gauze and lace]
Overview: The bodice is made from silk gauze and cotton lace. The flanges over the shoulders have been painted with black, green and yellow stripes. There is more coloration on the left side than on the right side. The bodice looks asymmetrical, but it is possible that the lace on the right side has been removed (some threads remain).
Construction: The bodice looks light but uses a combination of materials and ornamentation to achieve that effect. A mint green satin bow is stitched across the front; there might have been a bit of decoration on the bow, as there are stitches. There are also four rhinestones buttons sewn as decoration on the center-front yoke. The bodice closes at center back with hooks and loops. Through the body of the bodice there are 9 closures, some of which are missing. Through the yoke there are 6 hooks and bars. At the back of the yoke there is one piece of lace that crosses over center back when the garment is closed to obscure the hooks and bars. The bodice has a very tall standing band collar that is 3 1/2" high at the front and 4" tall at the back. It is stayed by 4 wiggly bones at the sides of the neck. The top edge is finished with a piece of silk braid.
The 3/4 length sleeves are not lined and have one seam placed in the back. They have a section of silk roulade at the top, lace, silk satin and then two rows of pleated cotton bobinette which has crocheted ball beads hanging down. The front and back of the bodice have sections of fine lace laid over China silk.
The inside is clean and there are center-back hooks and bars that close left over right. Center-back and center-front yoke are flat-lined with silk organza - which has also been darned). There is a center-front seam, two bust darts, a side seam, two side-back pieces and a center-back piece. Two cotton filled pads run from the side-back seam up to the shoulder. There is a horizontal dart connecting apexes. The under-bodice is made of light weight cotton batiste with a shape reinforced with 12 bones. The yoke and the collar are underlined with China silk. There are half-moons on the inside of the bodice extending from the underarm to the shoulder, which is lightly padded.
Damage: The lace detail on the left side of the bodice and the matching skirt are missing. The bottom edge is raw and there are black threads where something was removed, perhaps a belt. It is likely that the bodice was worn on stage due to repairs made with modern thread, in particular to the lace on the back yoke.
Tags: Has been studied and reproduced by MFA candidate