Construction: At the back, the interior of the bodice is flat-lined in cotton. The weave of the cotton creates a ground of light gray
and the surface features a small diamond-shaped pattern in a charcoal gray. The reverse of this fabric is charcoal gray.
The center back panel of the velvet is cut on the fold however the cotton flat lining has a seam.
All interior seams at the back are boned and their edges are bound.
The interior cotton bodice is separate from the exterior bodice from the side front forward. It closes
independently at center front with metal hooks and eyes. The cotton underbodice is shaped with two
bust darts on each side. Each of these darts are boned.
The bodice's center front plastron is comprised of three layers. The outermost is a black silk gauze. The
second is a pleated black China silk. The third layer, a glazed black linen, serves as a foundation for the
other layers and controls the excess length of the first layer. It is this gauze layer which provides the
pouter pigeon silhouette of the bodice. This fabric hangs over a waist which is slightly dipped below the
natural waist at center front. The waist is edged in a black satin ribbon. The plastron closes at the left
side front with six hooks and eyes. It also fastens with hooks and eyes near the shoulder on the left side.
The velvet fabric is used to create a bolero-like silhouette at the front of the bodice. There are wide
lapels and a cut-out design at the side front. These velvet portions are edged in black trim and a lace
applique in the shape of a bow has been applied to each lapel. The sleeves are cut with a single seam and
there is slight gathering at the armscye. The sleeves are lined in the same cotton as the rest of the bodice.
The hem of the sleeve is cleaned on the inside with a 1" bias binding. Wide cuffs in the velvet lined with black satin are stitched to the bottom edge of the
sleeve.
The bodice has a detachable collar that is interlined with buckram. The black satin lining is mostly
deteriorated. The collar closes at center back with two hooks and eyes. The velvet exterior is decorated
with jet beads in a bow pattern.
See supplemental pages for additional information.
Trim: Braid trim, lace appliques, and beads ornament this decorative bodice.
The contrast of the velvet with silk gauze in the neck opening and the trim creates much interest.
See supplemental pages for additional information.
Damage: The bodice is in poor condition and continues to deteriorate. The velvet has been flattened in some areas and has an imprint of the braid and beads indicating it was stored without much care.
Tags: Has been studied and reproduced by MFA candidate
