Deep Royal Blue
Overview: This double-breasted outer coat, c. 1900, is made of Melton wool that has been dyed deep royal blue. The outside of the coat is decorated with black cotton passementerie braid at the front lapels, around the collar edge, down center front, around the hem to the back. Center back has a large motif as well as do the lower edges of sleeve hems. There are two hand finished button holes 1 1/4" wide with a set of four mother of pearl buttons (one is missing) that close the double breast.
Construction: The coat has one dart shaping the front, covered by decorative trim. When the double breasted coat is buttoned, it creates a single scallop and pointed hemline. Centered 2 1/4" up from the hem in the scallop of both front pieces is a welt pocket. There are two keyhole buttonholes measuring 1 1/4" and three 1" mother of pearl buttons placed asymmetrically on the jacket. The back of the bodice is constructed so that a five-piece fiddle back is created. The hem of each piece is rounded creating an overall scalloped hem. There is a four piece, very high stand collar measuring 5 1/2" at center front and 6" at center back. There is a machine edge stitch (1/8" from edge) and a second stitch, 3/8" from the edge stitch, which sandwich the outer layer of fabric and the facing. These start at the lapel and continue down center front, around the hem and back to the opposite lapel. This stitching is also found on the upper collar.
For additional information, see the supplemental pages.
Trim: There is a black passementerie braid placed in several locations on this coat: the edge of upper collar, the lapel, the sleeve, and the hem of the coat. For additional information, see supplemental pages.
Provenance: Found in costume storage in the Department of Dramatic Art. The jacket is in the Costar Collection.
Damage: The lining of the coat is worn at the neck and hem. The royal blue wool is discolored at the lapel, neck and lower left sleeve. The right, outer side back seam has been poorly repaired with a whip-stitch that shows to the outside. The lower left side mother of pearl button is missing.