Deep Royal Blue Jacket

Overview: This double-breasted outer coat, c. 1900, is made of Melton wool that has been dyed deep royal blue. The outside of the coat is decorated with black wool passementerie braid at the front lapels, around the collar edge, down the side fronts, around the hem to the back. Center back has a large motif as well as do the lower sleeves. There are two hand finished button holes 1 1/4" wide with a set of four mother of pearl buttons (one is missing) that close the double breast.

Supplemental Pages: Research Paper, Bibliography, Reproduction, Pattern

Construction: The double-breasted coat has one dart shaping the front, covered by decorative trim. Centered 2 1/4" up from the hem in the scallop of both side front pieces is a small welt pocket. There are two keyhole buttonholes measuring 1 1/4" and three 1" mother of pearl buttons placed asymmetrically on the jacket. The back of the bodice is constructed so that a five-piece fiddle back is created. The hem of each piece is rounded creating an overall scalloped hem. There is a four piece, very high stand collar measuring 5 1/2" at center front and 6" at center back. There is a machine edge stitch (1/8" from edge) and a second stitch, 3/8" from the edge stitch, which sandwich the outer layer of fabric and the facing. This topstitching starts at the lapel and continue down center front, around the hem and back to the opposite lapel. This stitching is also found on the collar edge. The edges of the wool are cut just beyond the topstitching. The sleeves are hemmed normally. The sleeves and body of the jacket are lined in magenta cotton satin. For additional information, see the supplemental pages.

Trim: There is a black passementerie braid placed in several locations on this coat. For additional information, see supplemental pages.

Provenance: Found in PlayMakers costume storage in the Department of Dramatic Art. Has a fabric label, handwritten "C. Playmakers" [Carolina Playmakers] stapled into the lining at the center back.

Damage: The lining of the coat is worn/deteriorating at the neck and hem. The royal blue wool is discolored (faded) at the right lapel, inside neck and lower left sleeve. The right side/side back seam has been poorly repaired with a gigantic whip-stitch with thick thread on the outside of the garment. The lower left side front mother of pearl button is missing.

Tags: Has been studied and reproduced by MFA candidate