Violet and Cream Striped Bodice

Overview: This violet and cream striped bodice is c. 1901. It is made from silk taffeta and appears to have a bolero over the top, but is constructed in one piece.

Construction: The lining is brown glazed cotton. This boned bodice was constructed with a fitted inner bodice, and a draped over bodice. The inner bodice was cut in five pieces on each side. The center-front to side seam is cut in one piece with two boned darts on each side. The side seam to back was cut in four separate pieces each with a bone at the seam. There are also bones at the center-front opening, making a total of fifteen bones on the bodice. The outer bodice has been constructed by draping fabric over the inner bodice, controlling it by being flat lined to the inner bodice at the side seams. This keeps the bodice snug and fitted around the body. The fullness of the front drape has been controlled at the waist with four released pleats, which are full over the bust and then controlled again into gathers at the neckline. In the back there are also four released pleats, which go smoothly into the shoulder seam. The collar is a 1 3/4" stiffened, stand collar covered in dark purple velvet. The collar closes at center-back with two hook and eye closures. The bodice closes at center-front with a hook and eye closure. There are two parts to the fitted sleeve with a small amount of ease at the sleeve cap. There is a 1 1/2" of gathering at the elbow for ease. The hem of the bodice has been turned under with a 1" bias strip, and then covered with a 5/8" piece of velvet. The interior seams have been finished in two ways; the back seams have been clean lined with the lining fabric, and the side and front seams have been finished with a piece of tape cleaning the edge of each one. See supplemental pages for additional information.

Trim: The bodice has been trimmed in a deep purple velvet fabric. A 5/8" piece of this goes along the hem of the bodice. There is also a 1 3/4" wide band which curves along the front of the bodice from the lower side seam, over the bust and up into the shoulder seam at the neck. Attached to this velvet band is a 1 1/4" ruffle. This ruffle was made from the bodice fabric, cut on the straight grain. A decorative floral embroidery applique has been put over the velvet. This applique is also on the collar and on the sleeve cuff (minus the velvet). The sleeve hem comes to a point over the hand and is trimmed with a ruffle made of the bodice fabric. See supplemental pages for additional information.

Damage: This garment is in excellent condition. A few minor stains dot the interior, and there is some wear around the elbow on the sleeves. It appears that some of the fabric dye is wearing off due to friction at this point. Overall the outer fabric of the bodice is still very beautiful.