The reproduction was constructed from latte wool crepe, kelly green rayon velvet, and silk faille for the false front which was dyed to match original color. The bodice was flat-lined with light tan broadcloth. The velvet was lined with a matching polyester lining. Crepe was chosen instead of gabardine for logistical reasons – available gabardines were either a color that did not compliment the velvet or were prohibitively expensive.
Figure 1: Reproduction Front
Figure 2: Reproduction Back
A few changes in construction were made from the original. A 1/4" roll was added to the sailor collar to allow it to lay more gracefully over the fullness of the sleeves, and the visible lining was made from a matching polyester instead of the original brown linen. Bones were added in the false fronts from the waist to the breakpoints of the collar to help control the fabric. The sleeves were shortened to allow them to hang without the need to push them up, and fullness was removed from the back seam for a more attractive modern fit. The original garment had a stand collar that closed center front on the foundation under the bib. This extra bulk has been eliminated and the foundation neckline has simply been finished with piping.
|Center front length||16 1/2"|
|Center back length||19"|
|Sleeve length from shoulder point to wrist||23"|
|Button diameter||1 1/4"|
© Max Epps, 2016