This garment has been made mostly by hand. There is evidence that it was altered at a later date and that is indicated in some places with machine stitch.
The bodice is flatlined with light-weight linen. It laces in the back, but closes practically at center front, right over left, with hooks and eyelet holes. There is a separate piece of silk that is gathered at top and bottom, stitched to the right side of the opening and has small hooks on the edge. This piece probably covered the closing, but it isn't clear how it attached.
You could see the evidence of two darts on either side of center front that had been removed. They were basted in for the photograph. The side seam falls 1 ½” to the back of the natural underarm position. The shoulder falls 2” below and runs parallel to the natural shoulder. There are bone tapes on either side of the lacing at center back and in a channel created in the side seams. The curved shape of the side back seams has been achieved by taking a very small tuck in the fabric instead of using a seam.
The puff sleeve is made on a cotton foundation and the fullness pleated into the corded armhole; the pleats reverse at the bottom and the edge is piped. All of the edges in the armhole have been trimmed to ¼” and overcast. The neckline is corded. The waist has a 2" self-faced band that has been stitched by machine, indicating a later alteration, perhaps in attempt to fit a longer-waisted body.
The belt has been cut from the pink stripe 1 ½” wide and measuring 25”. It is lined with white silk. The bow consists of two loops and two tails made of double fabric. The edges and the belt itself are trimmed with an off white braid that has had a 1/8” pink velvet ribbon threaded through it. The belt closes center front with hooks and loops.
The skirt has been taken off the original waistband, however you can see an indication at center front of a pointed waist, indicating that the bodice originally had a point. This is confusing given the straight belt. The skirt is cut with a center front panel and 8 straight to bias panels, 4 each side. The skirt measures 70” at the waist and 120” at the hem. The side front seams and the center back have been stitched by machine, but the other seams are hand stitched and overcast to finish. The machine stitching continues uninterrupted into the trim at the hem. All of the hand stitching seems to be original. There is evidence of a center back placket.
The bottom edge of the skirt is flatlined to a stiffened fabric and the edge is bound with tan wool braid. There are two bias flanges trimming the skirt, a 3” one set even with the bottom edge and a 2 ¾” one stitched 9 “ above the hem. These bias pieces are faced with linen matching the bodice flatlining. Black velvet ribbon is stitched at the top edge of the flange and there is an additional row of ribbon 1 ¼” above the top flange and 2 rows above the bottom flange, all approximately 1 ¼” apart. The seam joining the facing to the flange is done by machine, but the application was done by hand.