Red, blue and green plaid
Overview: This 1860s blue and green plaid bodice is made from lightweight silk fabric. The lining is glazed linen. It is trimmed with black cotton velvet ribbon. Some seams on this garment have been machine stitched, but most of the bodice has been made and trimmed by hand.
Construction: The bodice is flat-lined to brown linen and shaped by two darts that are on each side of the center front opening. There is a second row of hand stitching on each dart. There is a diagonal seam that runs from 1 1/2" behind the natural underarm seam position at the armhole to 3" behind the waist. The shoulder seam drops to the back 3". It has two front points when buttoned; it closes with fourteen buttons down the centerfront. The neck and bottom are corded with 1/16" self-fabric
Trim: There are two rows of black velvet ribbon that are hand-stitched to the bodice in the front and back, added after the garment was made. The fitted cap sleeve has three vertical rows of box pleated, 7/8" wide black velvet ribbon. The same trim has been applied to the cuff. The edge of the header on the full sleeve has been piped with black velvet ribbon as well.
Provenance: Found in costume storage in the Department of Dramatic Art. It is in the Costar Collection.
Damage: The buttons are missing. The linen flatlining is shredding in the body but is in better condition in the sleeves. There are perspiration stains under the arms.