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Printable page Black Wool Bodice

1900 -1910 Black womans bodice [Wool]
Overview: The collarless black wool bodice has a hidden closure and long sleeves. It has a matching belt in the box with it.
Construction: The bodice opens in the front with a closure hidden under the left side outer layer. It has a round neckline. The fullness of the side fronts is pleated into the waist. There are 4 pleats facing the neck that extend to the waist from the shoulder. There is a plastron at the front which has horizontal pintucks from the waist to the bottom of the bust and vertical pintucks through the yoke to the neck. The top section of the plastron extends to the left shoulder where it hooks into place, hidden under the overlap. The waist edge and the neck edge are both bound. The back has 3 sets of tucks facing center back from the side of the neck opening. Center front from the neck to the waist measures 17" with a slight curve at the bottom of the front. Center back from the neck to the waist measures 16 and a half inches. There is decorative trim down the front of the plastron made of self-fabric in the form of shallow crosses. The under bodice, made from glazed cotton, is fully boned and closes center front with 11 hooks and loops. The left front has 2 bones and the right front has 3 bones. There are an additional 5 bones distributed across the back. It has been been taken in on the side seams and the side front seams. There are 2 bust pads at the front of the arm hole and over the side bust made of glazed cotton. There is a bust ruffle on the outside of the glazed cotton inner bodice, but hidden underneath the wool layer. The sleeves consist of a slightly full upper sleeve and a narrow cuff which measures 5" long. The over-sleeve is made from one piece of fabric but there is a triangular gusset in the underarm seam. The sleeve cuff closes with one hook and thread loop. The thread loop is present on the right sleeve but is missing on the left. The sleeves are lined with black glazed cotton. The garment has a separate belt, a Swiss belt, that forms a shallow point above and below the waist at the front and narrows going toward the back. It measures 4 1/4" wide at the front and 2 1/2" at the back. When hooked it is 31" around. There is an inch and a quarter long ruffle hiding the closure which is 2 hooks and loops. There are 9 vertical feather bones supporting the belt which is flat-lined with buckram. The surface has some loose pleats that have been tacked down in a couple of places.
Damage: The top of the back neck of the inner bodice has been replaced with black faille. Some of the bodice bones are now missing. It is possible that it was worn on stage.
Costar #G1753