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Printable page Black Taffeta Jacket

1863 -1868 Black womans jacket [Silk Faille]
Overview: This jacket is unlined and unstructured. It has a fiddle-shaped back.
Construction: This unlined garment is cut in 5 panels: 2 fronts, 2 sides, and a back. The front panels each have a bust dart that it released into a 2" deep pleat below the waist. The side seam is at the natural side position. The appearance of the back, created by pieces of fabric and seams form the shape of a fiddle-back. Center front is on straight grain and all of the panels flare on the seams to create the skirt fullness. All of the panels also have additional pieces added at the hem to compensate for narrow fabric. The seams are all hand-stitched and overcast. There is no boning. Center front and the hem are finished with a 1/2" wide strip of bias. There are three hooks and loops, all extant, to close center front. The neckline has been corded, and there is a 1" high band collar cut on straight grain that uses darts in order to fit into the neckline. The raw edge at the top of the collar has been turned under. There is an interior ribbon waistband with no closures and 1/2" wide grosgrain ties at the center back waist. The two-piece shaped sleeve is set into the dropped armscye with no ease. The garment measures 138" around the bottom edge.
Trim: There is a two-tiered bow made from the fashion fabric at the center back waist. There is machine made lace at the hem, in a V pattern 2"-3" above the sleeve hem, and forming a V around the neckline on both center front and center back of the bodice. It appears to be original.
Damage: There are holes in the skirt. The lower closure at center front is loose and is in danger of tearing off. Some of the seams are coming unstitched. Some of the lace is missing from the hem, from the front to the left side seam.
Costar #G1062