Construction: The garment is entirely flat-lined with a printed, polished cotton. There are thirteen interior bones, one on each seam and on the interior center front darts. The bone casings are made of the printed cotton flat lining fabric. Each seam allowance is bound with cream silk tape. A waist stay made of silk ribbon secures the bodice with a hook and eye center front and a center back hook would be used to attach the bodice to the bustle. The bodice front has four rows of 1/2" vertical tucks which have been tacked to the inside with hand stitches. The rows of tucks lead up to a false center front of bias-cut light and dark gray striped silk jacquard attached to the proper right side of the bodice. The false front is shirred at the waist and controlled internally with a 1" stay. The faille bodice closes with a row of thirteen mother-of-pearl buttons concealed under the silk jacquard. The buttonholes are hand-worked in the polished cotton inner bodice. The two-piece fitted sleeve has a 2", triangular gusset which might have been added as an alteration because the seams have been let out. The bodice side seams and center back have also have been let out. The sleeve ends in a false lower sleeve made of the same bias silk jacquard which is shirred at the wrist. The lower sleeve has a 2" slit opening and is trimmed with a cream picot-edge ribbon. The stand collar is also edged with the same trim. The center back of the garment has two 2" pleats that would sit on top of a bustle.
There are stiffened knit dress shields stitched into each underarm.
Trim: The collar and wrists are trimmed with double rows of 5/8" ribbon with a picot edge. Striped jacquard at the center front and sleeves edges compliment the solid fabric comprising the rest of the bodice.
Damage: The silk waistband is deteriorating. One button is missing.
Tags: Has been studied and reproduced by MFA candidate