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Printable page Blue and Black Herringbone Wool Day Dress

1898 -1905 Blue and Black womans day-dress [Wool]
Overview: The two-piece day dress appears to have an under-bodice with jacket over the top but is constructed as a bodice and skirt. The chevron pattern of the wool is effectively used.
Construction: The entire garment is made of wool woven in a bold herringbone pattern and lined with glazed linen from two different dye lots. The bodice has a two piece fitted sleeve without a cuff. The bottom of the sleeve is finished with self fabric that has been turned back and hemmed. The black silk brocade at the front, that forms what appears like an under blouse, is laid over an underbodice of the herringbone wool to provide a solid foundation. The underbodice closes in the front with 10 hooks and loops; there is an additional one at the waist. The bodice has been re-lined with modern cotton muslin, but underneath that layer is the original glazed linen, which is shredding. The new lining was carefully stitched into place by hand. The bodice is fully boned with 10 bones. There is a 1 1/2" standing band collar that closes at the front with one modern snap. Lace extends from the top the collar. The skirt has a 22 inch waistline; there is evidence that it has been let out. The skirt is cut in seven pieces with straight to bias seams. The waistband is self-fabric lined with linen that measures an inch and a half wide. There are hanging tapes in each side. It has been put together by machine with the linen flat-lined to the wool. The seams are not finished. There is a narrow wool fringe at the bottom edge that is 1/4" wide to prevent wear. The skirt itself is hemmed with a 1 1/2" bias section of the self-fabric. The bottom edge is 129" around. There is no gathering into the belt but at center back there are pleats on both sides, measuring 2 inches deep. Center front is cut on the fold. There is a 8 1/2" placket in the back that closes with two modern snaps.
Trim: There is a lace trim on the collar (which is original) and cuff (which is not original). The black silk is a woven pattern effectively used.
Damage: There is some damage under arms and it is faded on the shoulders. There are moth holes throughout. There is evidence that it has been worn either on stage or for a party, due to some repairs, replacement hooks, and a new lining in the bodice.
Costar #G1033