Construction: This hand-sewn bodice consists of two layers. The inside is made from off-white, glazed handkerchief linen and the outside is off-white cotton organdy. The inner bodice has a center front bias seam and one under-bust dart on each side, radiating 1" from center front to the bust point. There is a center front bone that arches inwards towards the body. The darts have been trimmed. There is also a channel for a bone created from the seam allowance. The outside center front is very full and is controlled with four rows of gathers approximately 1" apart. The gathers are stitched to the under-bodice along those rows and the fullness is confined to the area between the bones. The waist measure 21". The back has no shaping and the organdy layer has been flat-lined to the linen. The side seam has been stitched through all layers. The neck edge is corded with self-fabric and the edge is piped. The bottom edge is finished with a 1", self-faced, straight grain band of glazed linen that has been mitered center front to form a point. The bodice closes at center back with hooks and loops. There are remnants of thread and holes along the bottom edge that suggest there was additional lace or a hem. The sleeves are back-stitched into the corded armhole with no extra fullness. The organdy sleeve is cut on the bias and hemmed with a roll hem. The linen sleeve is cut on the straight and its bottom edge is rolled to the outside and covered with lace.
For additional details, see supplemental page.
Trim: The edge of the linen under sleeve is trimmed with handmade lace. Remnants of thread at the neckline indicate that lace may have also been used there. The simple line of the bodice is enhanced by the use of cording at the neck, band and armholes.
Damage: The organdy is discolored, particularly in the sleeves. The whalebone has discolored the bone tapes on the center front and side seams. There are a few small holes in the organdy sleeves, possibly caused by silverfish. The center whale bone on the center front has cracked 3 1/4" from the base of the bodice and where the bottom hem begins. Some of the thread is beginning to fray and undo at the seams. There also appear to be sweat stains under the left arm.
Tags: Has been studied and reproduced by MFA candidate
