Black Bodice with Velvet Ribbon Trim

Overview: This drop shoulder bodice, made from silk taffeta and trimmed with velvet ribbon, is constructed completely by hand.

Construction: The body of the bodice is flat-lined with brown cotton twill and the sleeve with glazed linen of darker brown. The front is shaped with two darts. The waist measures 26 1/2", so these darts are not particularly large and have not been trimmed. The side seam falls 1 1/2" behind the natural underarm seam position. The back flat-lining has been cut without a seam, but the taffeta on the surface has curved side back seams that have been edge-stitched through to the flat-lining. The bodice closes with buttons and buttonholes, left over right. The only bone in the bodice is behind the bottom five buttons. The shoulder seam drops 1" to the back. The neck, armholes, wrist and bottom edges are corded with self-fabric. The two pieces of the sleeve are the same shape. There is no cap to the sleeve, but there is a box pleat on both the under and over sleeve to reduce the fullness at the armhole. There are remnants of thread at the waist, indicating that it was sewn to a skirt at one time. There are also remnants of wool tape at the side seams that might have been hanger tapes.

Trim: There are three rows of black velvet ribbon sewn to the upper sleeve. The top row is 1/4" wide and the other two rows are 3/8" wide.

Damage: There is minor perspiration damage to the flat-lining. The buttons have been removed. There is a hole on the left shoulder, probably insect damage. There are remnants of white thread at the neckline, indicating that the bodice had a collar that could be removed for laundry.